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matt perks


Guest
glencoe conditions
Date Posted: 22.11hrs on Sun 2 Feb 03
scabbard chimney, stob coire nan lochan

despite weather forecast and the blocked roads further east, the walk in was straightforward and the corrie is mostly quite bare with deep powder only in pockets. scabbard chimney was in good nick - a bit of fresh snow to clear in places but mostly quite clean, with no ice at all in cracks, and mostly well frozen turf.

looked to me like good conditions on pretty much all the mixed routes. dorsal arete looks particularly fine without the usual banked out ledges, stuff like tilt looked good, and unicorn is definitely white at the moment. gullies probably are a bit dodgy with deep unconsolidated snow although we came down broad gully okay (but only because lots of other folk tested it first).

weather today was fine - just a few snow showers and some thunder (weird). yet again it was better than predicted.
Mark Weeding


Guest
Re: glencoe conditions
Date Posted: 12.56hrs on Tue 4 Feb 03
1.02.03

Climbed number 4 buttress on Bidian nam Beith. Ice around low down on the route, none higher up. Covered in deep snow it provided a pleasant day out with plenty of opportunity to twist your ankles and blunt your axes
Chris McDaid


Guest
Re: glencoe conditions
Date Posted: 22.03hrs on Sun 16 Feb 03
Twisting Gully. Stob Coire nan Lochan. Very thin in places, good neve where snow has accumulated. Looked at SC gully also. Too thin to even attempt.
John I


Guest
Re: glencoe conditions
Date Posted: 20.50hrs on Mon 17 Feb 03
Original Route, Summit Buttress.
Well some of it anyway. Great conditions for turf and some Neve.
This route requires good moral fibre to avoid following the shelf into boomerang gully and not traversing back onto the steep upper wall. Maybe its just not the route to do on a sunday with the drive home to the toon nagging away.
Colin McGregor


Guest
Re: glencoe conditions
Date Posted: 23.51hrs on Tue 25 Feb 03
Arch Gully, Stob Coire Nam Beith (Done on 22nd Feb '03)
The only route that was complete! Went up to do Deep Cut Chimney but it had large blank bits in-between thin looking ice! The snow and ice in Arch Gully was in perfect nick providing excellent placements. The new guide has it graded II/III, but it was mainly grade I slopes with wee, interesting chockstone bits but on the 5th pitch an excellent grade IV pitch on excellent neve. North West Gully was the only route that looked as if it 'might' be in. The lower ice pitch of Central Gully was formed but that was it! Bring on lots more snow!!!!!
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