Best laugh today!!…

Brilliant!!


Re winter tyres if looking at "all season" you need the snowflake inside the 3 peak mountain symbol...

as that's the winter standard...& some all seasons meet this standard..like the ubiquitous Michelin cross climates...

Mind you I've been running separate sets of winters & summers both on alloys for the past 9yrs...

If I had to go down to one set then a set of cross climates on my chucky easy clean five spokes...as they don't clog with snow unlike the multispokes which I only use for summer...


That's why rally cars in winter use big five spoke alloys..& those that don't & use multispoke have snow clogging around the brakes etc...

Be good tae have seen the look on the sheeps face when ya floored it..

I had a look at a mobility car for someone during the summer and it had decent all seasons on it, pretty sure it came with them as she only had it a month or 2 which I thought was a good thing if that's standard, was a shitty Renault Captur.

Five spoke rally wheels have fat wide spokes, probably the same volume of air/snow etc can get through them has multi spoke.. Normal road wheels and tyres wouldn't last a day on a rally car unless ya were a granny and brakes are for the end of the stage in snow/ice or lightly moving weight.

I drove into a car wash in Aberdeen and we tam fae Kurdistan asked me if I needed the back seat treated in some sheep dip which I thought weird..

I'll explain clearer...

the gap between the spokes is greater so the snow cannot "bridge" between the spokes & causing them to fill up thus blocking air flow to the disc face...

Multipokes like 10 or 12 spoke have a very small gap between the spokes so the snow which sticks to the spokes can easily build up & bridge the gap.


I knew this anyway having watch rally cars, & old mate of mine also was a rally driver...& when I bought my cars alloys the tech dept of the company told me this also...


& BTW my summer alloys are the same ones use in the BTCC..& my winters are the same that are used in rallysports….so they are very strong, which you need in winter on these roads anyway...& they is no real test/standard to differentiate between road & rally wheels..most alloys are built for road & used on rally/track as suitable...the manufactures build with both markets in mind..

Haha!

Not true...

Watch them drive the cars on the on board camera....they always get the front wheels in the rut on the inside of the corners ...this keeps the car going around the bend...they use the vertical handbrake lever to lock the rear brakes to pivot the car around the corner..all the time with the foot on the gas...

Most people drive by leaving cars in high gear & driving up to corner..brake & drive away...sometimes they might change down..

Rally is always in right gear...so drive to corner, dab brakes before& change down to correct gear..then drive/power car around corner...


Loads of quick dabs on the brakes...just watch the brake lights on them even in winter on snow & ice...by the end of the stage the brakes are toasty...


Also if the gaps between the spokes are filled with snow that snow is now water & drops onto the hot brakes..it can also contain grit which gets in the pads..

this is why some alloy designs for winter rally are virtually totally enclosed...& they have direct air flow from the bumper …

Is there any normal world advantage for alloy wheels? Other than looking a bit smarter they are rather fragile and expensive. Steel wheels are cheap and durable in comparison. Is it just looks ?



Edited 1 times. Last edit at 09.41hrs Sat 13 Oct 18 by PeterS.

Several points re winter alloys...

1. chose a very durable paint finish..not some diamond cut finish that corrodes easy in winter.


2. chose alloy wheels which are strong, high load capable, ask the manufactures for the max load rating....mine are at least 80kg max load capable more than the tyres max load...

3. light weight & same size spec as summer so less difference in handling when you swap over from summers...


4. most important for many cars like mine.... you can't get normal steel wheels to fit over the brakes...


As for expensive I..mine cost me £1,250 for a complete set of 17" alloys fitted with Michelin alpin 225/45R17 tyres fitted...


that's cheap for very good quality & way cheaper than the price of the dealer stuff...


I like my car to remain sticky side down...tyre/wheels are the most important items on the car..& yet most people don't like spending any money on them, & skimp...


power is nothing without control...

sorry to read this, but its
typical landrover reliability !
two brand new ones breaking down takes the biscuit though

given landrover is always right at bottom of consumer reliability surveys, its not suprising. but i am amazed people still buy them...

Thanks for that snowman, but what is the advantage ? Is it handling at high speeds, fuel economy or acceleration perhaps ?

A new steel wheel With my winter tyres only cost about £10 more than the tyre when I bought them on line for my golf.

My alloys are 2kg lighter per wheel than the factory alloys in the exact same size...& they are lighter than the nearest steel wheel size...

so less rotational weight, better acceleration, better turn to turn handling on twisty roads, better mpg...

& I'll repeat again that I can't get steel wheels to fit over the brakes...


Many factory brakes are quite big...steel wheels due to their design have smaller dished sections for clearing the brakes & calipers... my space saver is steel but a special design on a very skinny 18" rim...


Most car makers when they sell winter sets in other countries where it is compulsory actually sell alloy wheel sets...unless the car is a low spec one with small brakes which standard steel wheels with fit over...

mine has 312mm discs same as MK7 Golf GTI...so special, but not that special...

We are now at 13 or 14 Land Rovers from new, always had problems with them apart from Shona's mark II freelanders, great cars. My range rovers, not the kid-on sport versions, have been off and on, some were atrocious some were great. This Discovery Sport sagga has just taken the biscuit. The first was off the road for 8 months and they could not fix it, the replacement ran for 18 days before breaking down. Its like we just give them money to the value of a car and they supply different models for us to try out for months at a time. Nice way to get top of the range demonstrators though. The Jag was a surprise and the new range rover was like a pimpmobile, very comfortable but would not dare take it on the farm in case something got damaged.

So why do we keep buying them? Good question, The RR is just so good off road and I really use it to its full extent on the farm. Hose is down and it is great for an evening out. A few folks reading this will have been very great full for it getting them off the mountain in storms, so sure footed. The boot is huge, fill it with skis, sailing kit, mountain bikes, chain saws and treat it like a transit van, cant beat it. I love the driving position in the RR and the snow / mud handling is great, I am often miles from a paved road. The folding bi-tail gate is so good for getting changed on, wellies, ski boots, wet suits.

But the new range of vehicles land rover are producing? For the first time in over 25 years I was at different dealers, Mitsubishi, Toyota and even Volvo and Ford. There is a reason Solihull have just closed their factory for two weeks and if they keep saying its is due to Brexit they are delusional. They will be getting a very rude awakening.

Land rover + good tyres was a tremendous combination, was.....

Graeme

Snowman, The dabbing of the brakes is to shift weight to help them get heavy where they need traction the most.

What size are yer winter rally wheels?

In a toy when cornering in slippery conditions I'll make sure I'm in a gear I've enough power on tap tae get they wheels spinning like feck if I need to get outta shit. Big flat corner and its flat out bam-bam-bam bent rod kinda shit.

If anyone was to get winter wheels and it was for normal driving, first rule of advise is to get a smaller light wheel so ya can stick on a tyre with a higher side wall, it gives better traction and if you slide or it something under the snow then there is far lass chance of fecking the wheel..

And by light I mean the stronger the wheel the less impact it will absorb, I'd rather a bent wheel than bent hubs, axle or wishbones which is easily done in winter if yer driving for looks...

Touring car wheels are for tracks, rally type wheels are for shitty Scottish roads.

And, I don't buy the winter rally wheel unless it's marketing crap. Ive never liked sealed brakes for the schreeching sound of shit getting stuck..



Edited 1 times. Last edit at 19.27hrs Sat 13 Oct 18 by growwild.

I'll clarify & repost again....

225/45R17 so that's 225mm wide..45% of 225 is the sidewall depth...mounted on a 17 inch rim...for both the winter & the summer alloys..

My summers are the same multispoke wheels as used in the BTCC....

My winters are heavy duty five spoke rally wheels which are used by many rally teams & are better in the winter than the multispokes.

With modern tyre technology there no longer any need to drop down a tyre size/wide....so I choose to keep the same size for both winter & summer....otherwise I lose 40mm in tyre width (grip) across each axle as the next size down is 205mm wide on a 16 inch rim...

My alloys are very strong & will take way higher loads than the tyres...& because they are 2kg lighter in weight than the OEM there is less impact & re-bound shock going through the suspension systems.....also way less rotation weight (you have to x6 to x10 for rotational)...so far better

Sorry no marketing BS....

"£1,250 for a complete set of 17" alloys fitted with Michelin alpin 225/45R17 tyres fitted..."

That's way below black market price for rally spec wheels even with standard winter tyres.

Thinner wheels and tyres help in winter too, look at rallying and see what they do. I've never had a shot in a rally spec car in snow but drove cars with more power in the snow than any rally car I was brought up around..

I've seen plenty of gravel or tarmac type wheel but only ever a couple of examples of winter specific wheels..

Rallying can afford to go thinner as usually they fit spikes to the tyres in winter..just on a road car there is no need with modern winter tyre design....so why as in my case would you choose to LOOSE 40mm in tyre width & grip on both axles by going down to the next correct tyre size??


There is no winter specific design...just that a more open spoke design..so bigger gaps between the spokes & less spokes stops the snow from collecting in the wheels...ideal/best design for the conditions...It just basic good design..

As for suggesting my wheels are black market...sorry you obviously have never seen the cheaper stuff which is just as good as the top names who just rely on their brand image...plus have you ever heard of shopping around??? I got mine direct from the factory as I bought two sets of alloys (spent about £2,400).


Also there are masses of cheaper rally spec classes who travel down the same tracks...like group N for example…they have to have strong wheels as they can't afford to have wheels break...the top teams throw money around & go through wheels like there's no tomorrow...