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Huw Davies

Date Posted: 17.42hrs on Mon 6 Jan 03
Climbed Central Buttress (II) Lochnagar Sunday 5th. Long hard slog in with some tough trail breaking over snow covered boulders in the corie. Route in near-perfect nick. Snowed up, hoar frosted and frozen turf. Great fun.
adam kassyk

Re: Lochnagar
Date Posted: 20.56hrs on Wed 8 Jan 03

I'm interested in conditions on Lochnagar. Can you tell me more? How deep was the snow cover on the rocks? Did you need to do a lot of clearing for the holds, or was the snow actually quite thin? Was the trail breaking really bad, or just average (for Lochnagar!) Were the rocks completely hoared up? Could you make a guess as to how much snow was lying on the steeper rock climbs eg Parallel Buttress/the Pinnacle?


Richard Lawes

Re: Lochnagar
Date Posted: 11.57hrs on Thu 6 Feb 03
Climbed Forsaken Gully (II) on Weds 5th Feb 2003. Walk in was slow, through very deep snow. We were passed by the avalanche assessors in snow shoes. Very envious of their speed!! Conditions on Lochnagar are thin and the avalanche assessors said that it was lean throughout the cliffs. The central and northern sections looked better than where we were in the southern section, especially those around Black spout which had much more snow. Found that the turf was barely frozen until well up the crag. The snow was deep, soft and powdery but in some places there was ice underneath. We walked back down via Loch Muick, and the snow was horrendously deep and powdery on the descent. In places we waded through 4-5ft deep drifts. Were passed again, by a telemark skier who made better proggress!!
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